2.10 The Mighty Bum La Pass

11/3/24 Monday

Here are some fascinating details about the historic BumLa pass that we visited today.

Situated at a height of 15,200 feet above sea level, the Bum La Pass is a border pass between China's Tsona County in Tibet and India's Tawang district. Here one of the fiercest battles, the Battle of Bum La Pass, took place in the 1962 Sino-Indian War. While India accepts a borderline called the McMahon line agreed upon by the British and Tibet's then government in 1914 to be the border, China disputes it, especially in Arunachal Pradesh, most of which it terms as 'South Tibet'. 

Being a border sensitive area, we could not take our vehicles, had to hire local cars and take permits from the army to get there. The scenery around is absolutely stunning with craggy mountains draped in snow and ice. The road is dotted with army camps made of corrugated steel sheets and wood, ammunition dumps, artillery parks, stone bunkers and memorials to soldiers who fell in the India-China border war of 1962. 

At the top of the pass, we found ourselves at the visitors' area and as we stood there with reverence, we were asked to follow a Subedar, a man of authority and wisdom.

A mere hundred meters later, we reached the Line of Actual Control, where no one is allowed to cross, yet the proximity to the Chinese soldiers a few feet away made the geopolitical reality come alive. The Subedar began unraveling the tales of life on the front lines, where our jawans stand guard against all odds.

In a lively and occasionally humorous manner, the Subedar painted a vivid picture of the extreme conditions our soldiers endure in their commitment to protecting the borders. He shared some touching truths about the dedication of our soldiers. "Soldiers love their country more than their families," he declared, emphasizing the profound sense of duty that resonates with them.

He humourously added, "An army man can control one thousand soldiers but cannot control ten civilians," offering a glimpse into the challenges faced in maintaining order.

"We are fully prepared to handle any situation that may arise," he assured, instilling a sense of confidence in the face of adversities. His final words, however, cut through the air that left an indelible mark on our souls.

As tears welled in our eyes, the Subedar spoke with conviction, "Aap sab apne apne ghar ja kar aaram se so jaiye, hum yaha aapki suraksha ke liye khade hai. Yeh zameen hamari maa hai, ek inch bhi unko lene nahi denge" In that moment, words cannot describe the emotions that we felt about the gravity of our soldiers' sacrifice for our country. 

Filled with a sense of pride for our country and amidst shouts of “Jai Hind” and “Bharat Mata ki Jai”, we departed for Tawang.

On the way is the beautiful Sangestar Tso Lake which was created by falling rocks, boulders and trees due to an earthquake in the region. A curious fact about it is that the lake has acquired an alter ego, Madhuri lake, a name borrowed from the glitzy world of Bollywood. Why? Because once upon a time, Madhuri Dixit pranced around its shores for a film shoot. Ridiculous!!!